Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Production Line Painting:Pt1

I am carrying out a batch of production line painting for 1980's - 1990's British Army. I really should be painting Australians, but as these will be individually based they are a little easier to paint. First up, after cutting from the sprue and removing the flash is the wash. This is important to remove any oils from the plastic, even the oil from your skin can fault your paint job so a warm wash in mild dish washing liquid followed by a air dry really is essential.
Next I secure the dried figures with a double sided sticky tape to a painting tray, or piece of wood. I leave a little space to allow for spray painting at different angles. I generally paint in the wood shed as it has good ventilation and is free from gusts of winds.
I give the figures a quick coat of cheap Matt Black Auto primer, then allow to dry, this takes around 10 minutes. I then give a more generous coat to ensure total coverage. Spraying takes place from about 300mm, this stops a heavy coat accidentally being applied.
After leaving in a warm place for 24 hours the time has come to base the figures. You don't have to base them at this stage but I find that its makes the figures easier to handle when painting. I have seen people attach them to plastic bottle caps to paint, but this as always seemed like and extra step to me as you will have to remove them from the cap afterwards and rebase them.
Seen above I have used 5 cent coins, I like coins as they give the figure weight and balance (as well as increasing their value!), but washers or counters do the job just as good. I simply apply the figure with some PVA white glue and leave for a night. PVA is really a wonderful product and is a must for any wargamer! Well that's the easy part next comes the painting.

8 comments:

  1. So far, very similar to the way I do this (although I prime with white instead of black). Mine go straight onto the coins too, followed up (after the PVA has dried) with some wood putty to fill in the edges and make it look smooth.

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  2. I'm taking notes :)

    What manufacturers are in the lot above? Revell?

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  3. Hello Paul,
    I'm want to get back into plastics again after so much metal etc. Which manufacturer would you recommend? I suppose each has its merits etc. Plastic has always put me off in the past a little due to the softness of the material.
    All the best for now,
    Monty

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  4. Hi all and thanks for the interest.

    Grumpy Kiwi; I never really have been a fan of white base coats, generally because I use the back for creasing,depth and like to leave on for boots, belts,and certain forms of webbing suck as the yokes for WW2 German equipment. However you must do what suits yourself and my mate Dave also uses white to acheieve his 'Britains' look.

    Geordie; What do you mean you are taking notes! Half term break remember, you should be chasing your kids around! Figures are Modern British from Revell, Matchbox NATO Paratroopers (British Forces Falklands)-these are long out of production and should be snapped up whenever you come across them, and a few figures from the ESCI Modern NATO Soldiers set.

    Monty; Good to see you trying to get back into plastics. As to which manufactuer I would recommend?- there is no simple answer, certain companies can put out a really great set of figures and then follow it up with a poor issue. All of them seem guility of this due to different people being contracted to sculpt the product.

    To ensure you get what you really want I would recommend you visit Plastic Soldier Review on the net and check out your period that you wish to collect. The info is all on the review including photo's,plastic firmness and height, so that you can see what might blend with your metal figures.

    I hope that helps.

    Cheers Paul

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  5. They look the part mate, paint them all as RMCs

    Al

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  6. I use the white undercoat as I give my figures a coat of one of the Citadel washes after I'm done painting it. This makes the figure darker, so I like to start out a shade or two lighter than what my final result should be.

    As you though, each to their own. Now where did I leave those 5 cent pieces?

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  7. I also use a few Citadel washes and inks and find them very good, actually highly recommended now that I think about it.

    Al

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  8. Good to see an exchange of idea's and info on this subject.

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