A few work in progress shots of my 1980's Kiwi Infantry showing the real difference a wash makes. Above we have the before shot while below the after.
To be honest I am not that impressed. NZ DPM while the same pattern as the British version has a somewhat brighter appearance from the European variant. I thought I had it down to pat until the wash went on. Now it looks like they are soaking wet, which I suppose is not a bad thing.
Before above.
After...Tell me I am not over-reacting!
I think they look alright mate, just not as flash as the RM:)
ReplyDeleteHm... what wash are you using? Maybe you need to dilute it more, so it settles more in the shadows and not so much on the figure. Also, it looks like you have shaded the figures a little bit already? Dark washes looks better on light colours since you will always tone down the base coat a little bit.
ReplyDeleteDo me a favor Al, never change. Thanks mate.
ReplyDeleteBlack wash Laffe. I used the same solution on the Matchbox RM's, and it did not seem to have the same effect.
ReplyDeleteI did not intentionly carry out any prior shading, I think its just my painting style.
Thanks for the advice, I will take it on board mate.
They still look great mate. That's some very fancy camo you've painted there.
ReplyDeleteNick
Cheers Nick. Sometimes I think I am my own worst critic.
ReplyDeleteStop beating yourself up Paul - they look great. I agree that the colours are a bit muted, but I'm sure you know better than me that camo does look that way from any distance.
ReplyDeleteWell, they do look good anyway. I think the subdued camo is great, the faces are maybe a bit dark.
ReplyDeleteI like them very much Paul!! I think you are a bit harsh to yourself!
ReplyDeleteIf you still want to change sth, perhaps you could water down / dilute the wash a little.
Apart from that, I LIKE THEM!!
T.
They're looking pretty good mate. I really dig how you have done the differences between the black furniture and the metal components of the M-16's. Please tell which paints you used for the two and I will steal it for myself...
ReplyDeleteOne of things I've found I have had to do since I started using washes is to use slightly brighter colours when doing the initial painting. For example for the sand colour of DPM, I'm using Vallejo's Desert Sand which is a bit brighter than the real deal but looks about right after the wash. Also doing a white undercoat to make things really glow. Looks very wrong before the wash mind you (and white is a PITA to make sure you have it all covered).
Second thing is use a Brown wash instead of the Black. Brown is better for most things and doesn't tone down the colours quite so much. I tend to reserve Black for steel.
Cheers for that Tim.
ReplyDeleteHi Laffe, Probably 50% of the NZ Army is Maori so that can account for the darker flesh.
ReplyDeleteCheers Paul
Thanks Thanos. Everyone says dilute. Perhaps I should start to listen.
ReplyDeleteHi Chris, Humbrol 33 for plastic and Humbrol 53 drybrushed on the metal parts with Humbrol 11 for the magazines.
ReplyDeleteM16A1s of the period were for the most part worn out hence the heavy weathering of the metal parts and magazines, even the plastic was tarnished.
SLRs were actually in better nick as the wooden parts had for the most part been replaced with the plastic types or a mix and match of wood and plastic was used. The nice thing about the SLR was you could always count on in it firing, unlike the M16's which did not seem to like the 5.56 black plastic blanks.
I will try a white base coat at some stage and take on board what you say about the paint and wash colour, so cheers for that.
Regards Paul
lol, secondly, I think much of NZLs kit from that era had..., well a decidedly worn look to it shall we say? so to me it looks quite authentic, I know these are in tropicals, but 'winter-weights were always a bit darker too
ReplyDeleteI think they look great.
ReplyDeleteTo be honest...the first versions looked better before the wash. The details stood out more and the cammo was more obvious.I´m not saying the washed ones look bad...just that IMHO the originals looked better..but that´s my preference...
ReplyDeleteCheers
Paul
Great looking figures. Definitely thin out your wash or buy the Game Workshop ones. The GW ones are a lot thinner than everything else out there.
ReplyDeleteFair comment Al, the winter weights had more light green look about them though I reckon.
ReplyDeleteTrue about the kit, worn out and in the case of some of the webbing rotting.
Paul, I am on your side here. My mate Phil reckons to use only on the webbing,faces and weapons, so I will try that for the next batch.
ReplyDeleteCheers for the backup.
Cheers Paul (Oz). I will look at this as well.
ReplyDeleteRegards Paul
Good work Paul
ReplyDeleteI'm with "Paul's Bods" in that I preferred the pre-wash, but it was really interesting to hear all the commentary
I following you down the "wash" learning curve so I hesitate to proffer any advice, however from my recent theory reading a touch of PVA or washing up liquid may help, or even adding a touch of ink into the mix
The GW washes are better because they have more pigment and a little detergent and be more translucent
Like I say my knowledge is all theory and it seems a bit of a black art to the uninitiated
Wash-on!
Aha...did you then literally wash it on all over.or use a paintbrush?? I´ve tried washing...once using both methods but it left me feeling a bit...??... unsatisfied.
ReplyDeleteCheers
paul
Interesting idea about the PVA Geordie, cheers for that.
ReplyDeleteNice thick No3 brush all over Paul. I do know what you mean mate.
ReplyDeleteRegards Paul